The University of Miami’s Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science is at the forefront in developing freak wave models, monitoring what used to be considered merely nautical myth, and working to create a warning system to protect those out at sea.

Wind-driven waves, currents, ocean bottom topography and inclement weather all play a role in freak wave development. With the advent of satellite imagery, only recently have scientists begun to get a sense of how frequently these rogue waves occur, estimating that worldwide approximately one to two ships are lost or damaged every week. These walls of water come without warning, able to sink or damage supertankers and container ships effortlessly.

To understanding rogue wave mechanics the Rosenstiel School operates an Air-Sea Interaction Saltwater Tank (ASIST) facility which provides scientists with a well-controlled environment and state-of-the-art technology to reproduce waves, with the capability to alter variables, such as temperature, air and water turbulence.

The School’s Center for Southeastern Tropical Advanced Remote Sensing (CSTARS) allows researchers to process and communicate satellite data within 30 minutes enabling researchers to prove the prevalence of freak waves. In places, like the nearby Gulf Stream and the Brazil current, having a constant eye on the turbulent, unpredictable patterns will help scientists and mariners better understand this natural phenomenon.

Mark A. Donelan, Ph.D, professor and chair of applied marine physics, UM Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science, studies the air-water interface and the physical processes involved in the development of waves. Dr. Donelan is available to discuss the science of rogue waves.
Office: (305) 421-4717
Email: mdonelan@rsmas.miami.edu

Hans Graber, Ph.D., associate professor of applied marine physics, UM Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science, is co-director of the Center for Southeastern Tropical Remote Sensing. Dr. Graber is available to discuss the physical properties of rogue waves and how satellite imagery is used to detect and study them.
Office: (305) 421-4952
Email: hgraber@rsmas.miami.edu

For more information on rogue waves, visit: http://www.rsmas.miami.edu/res-sheets/freak-wave.html